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Best Locks to Prevent Home Burglaries

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Published On:February 22, 2019

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The lock is what actually stops a break-in

A camera on the porch and a security sign in the yard are both worth having. They make a burglar think twice, and they help you after the fact. What neither one does is physically stop someone at the door. That is the lock’s job, and it is the one piece of hardware a burglar actually has to get past to get inside.

Break-ins are not random, and the people who attempt them know where a door is weak. They kick a door, pop a weak latch, or turn a key a previous owner never handed back. The right lock is what holds when that happens. This guide covers the locks worth putting on a Texas home today, what each one does, the brands that earn their keep, and what you should expect to pay, so you can pick the right one without guessing.

Keypad deadbolt with key backup on a home door

What actually makes a lock hard to beat

Before we get to brands, it helps to know what actually makes one lock harder to beat than another. It comes down to three things, and none of them is the finish or the price on the box. It is the grade, the bolt, and how well the cylinder stands up to an attack:

  • ANSI and BHMA grade. Grade 1 is the strongest residential rating, Grade 2 is a solid middle, and Grade 3 is builder basic. A Grade 1 deadbolt takes far more force and daily use than the lock most homes ship with.
  • Bolt throw and strike. A deadbolt should throw a full one inch into a reinforced strike plate. A long bolt and a strike anchored with long screws are what keep a kicked door from flying open.
  • Pick, bump, and drill resistance. Better cylinders use security pins and tight tolerances that defeat bumping and picking, plus hardened inserts that stop a drill. This is where cheap locks quietly give up.

Every lock in this guide is really just a different mix of those three. That is why a budget lock can still be the right call in the right spot, and why an expensive one is wasted when the strike plate behind it is held on by half-inch screws.

Deadbolts, the foundation of a secure door

If you buy one good lock, make it the deadbolt. A deadbolt has no spring latch to shim or slip, so it is the piece actually resisting a shoulder or a pry bar. The gap between a builder-grade deadbolt and a Grade 1 is the gap between a door that pops on the first hit and one that holds.

Deadbolts come in two forms, and the right one depends on your door. A single cylinder is the common choice, keyed outside with a thumbturn inside. A double cylinder is keyed on both sides, which changes both the security and the safety picture:

  • Single cylinder (Schlage B60N, Baldwin Prestige). Grade 1 security with a thumbturn you can turn fast in an emergency, and the right pick for most solid front and back doors.
  • Double cylinder (Schlage B62N). Keyed inside and out, so an intruder cannot break a nearby sidelight, reach in, and flip a thumbturn. Best near glass, as long as you keep a key close for fire escape.
  • Budget rekeyable (Kwikset SmartKey). A lower grade, but the built-in SmartKey lets you rekey it yourself in seconds, which suits rentals and quick move-in resets.

For most Texas homes, a Grade 1 single cylinder deadbolt from Schlage or Baldwin on every exterior door is the honest baseline. If you would rather the deadbolt and the knob share one key, that is a quick rekey, and our guide on running your deadbolt and door lock on the same key covers when that makes sense.

High-security locks and why key control matters

Here is the gap most people never think about. A standard key can be copied at any hardware counter, which means every roommate, contractor, or former tenant who once held your key could still carry a working copy. A high-security lock closes that gap with a restricted keyway.

High-security deadbolts like Medeco and Mul-T-Lock are built for two jobs at once, stopping a physical attack and controlling who can ever make a key. They cost more, and on the right door they earn it:

  • Restricted keys (Medeco Maxum, Mul-T-Lock Hercular). Keys can only be cut on a registered card, so no one copies yours at a kiosk, and you control every copy that exists.
  • Drill and pick resistance. UL 437 rated cylinders use hardened pins and steel inserts that shrug off drilling, picking, and bumping, the same attacks cheaper locks fall to.
  • Where they fit best. A main entry, a door with no camera nearby, a home office, or any home where you simply want the strongest mechanical lock made.

You do not need a high-security cylinder on every door in the house. One on the front, or on the door that has been keyed by a dozen people over the years, is usually where it pays off. To compare these against standard hardware, our high-security lock installation page lays out the options.

Not sure which of these your door actually needs?

That is a five-minute conversation with a technician who installs them every week. Call (866) 948-8188 and we will talk through your doors before you buy a thing.

Samsung fingerprint smart lock on a home door

Keypad and smart locks, without losing your keys

Keypad and smart locks are some of the most requested installs we do now, and it is easy to see why. You can let the family in with a code, hand a house cleaner their own PIN instead of a spare key, and lock the door from your phone after you have already left. None of that means giving up your keys. The good ones still take a physical key or a keypad code, so a dead battery or a Wi-Fi outage never leaves you standing on the porch.

There are two ways to go here, and the difference changes both the price and how much of your door hardware you replace. One keeps the deadbolt you already have, the other swaps it for a new unit:

  • Keypad deadbolt (Schlage BE365, Kwikset 264). A simple code-entry deadbolt with no app and no Wi-Fi, so there is nothing to hack and nothing to charge beyond a battery. A clean upgrade for anyone who just wants to stop carrying a key.
  • Retrofit smart lock (August Wi-Fi Smart Lock). It mounts over your current deadbolt and keeps your key working, adding app control, auto-lock, and remote access. The easiest way to go smart without changing the hardware outside.
  • Full smart deadbolt (Schlage Encode Plus, Yale Assure Lock 2, Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro). Built-in Wi-Fi or fingerprint, keypad entry, and phone control, with models that open by Apple Home Key or a thumbprint.

A smart lock does run on batteries and leans on your Wi-Fi for the remote features, so it needs fresh batteries now and then. That is a small tradeoff for the convenience, and the keypad or key backup covers you if either one drops. If you are weighing a smart lock against a plain deadbolt, our guide on whether smart locks are safer than traditional locks gives you the honest answer.

The best locks compared, features and cost

The table below lines up the locks worth considering, what each one is really for, the features that set it apart, and a current price range for the hardware itself. Professional installation or rekeying is a separate cost, and our Texas lock change cost guide breaks those service ranges down.

Lock (type and example
brands)
What it does
Key features
Typical hardware cost

Grade 3 rekeyable deadbolt (Kwikset SmartKey 660)

Budget upgrade over builder hardware
Rekey it yourself in seconds, BumpGuard cylinder
$20 to $45

Grade 1 single cylinder deadbolt (Schlage B60N, Baldwin Prestige)

The everyday secure front and back door lock
Full one inch bolt, hardened cylinder, top residential grade
$35 to $60

Double cylinder deadbolt (Schlage B62N)

Secures doors with nearby glass
Keyed both sides, blocks reach-through unlocking
$45 to $80

High-security deadbolt (Medeco Maxum, Mul-T-Lock Hercular)

Maximum mechanical security and key control
Restricted keys, UL 437 drill and pick resistance
$180 to $320

Keypad deadbolt (Schlage BE365, Kwikset 264)

Keyless entry with no app or Wi-Fi
Code entry, no key to lose, nothing to hack
$45 to $110

Retrofit smart lock (August Wi-Fi Smart Lock)

Adds smart control to your current deadbolt
Keeps your key, app and auto-lock, remote access
$130 to $230

Full smart deadbolt (Schlage Encode Plus, Yale Assure Lock 2, Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro)

Complete keyless and connected entry
Wi-Fi, keypad, fingerprint or Apple Home Key options
$150 to $300

Prices reflect typical 2026 retail for the hardware and shift with finish and retailer. Restricted high-security keys add a little for each copy, and installation is billed separately.

Expert Tip

The cheapest security upgrade is not a lock at all, it is the strike plate behind it. Swap the short screws that come with most deadbolts for three-inch screws that bite into the door frame stud. A Grade 1 deadbolt is only as strong as what its bolt lands in, and this single change does more to stop a kicked door than almost anything else you can buy.

How to pick the right lock for your door

The best lock is the one that fits your door, your household, and how little you want to think about it afterward. A few common Texas situations sort out most of the decision, and they line up with the calls we take every week:

  • Just moved in. Rekey or replace every exterior lock first, because you have no real idea how many old keys are still out there. A Grade 1 deadbolt on the main doors is the smart place to start.
  • Renting or turning over a unit. A Kwikset SmartKey deadbolt lets you reset access between tenants without booking a locksmith each time.
  • Glass near the door. A double cylinder deadbolt or a keypad model removes the thumbturn a burglar would reach for through a broken pane.
  • Tired of keys. A keypad or smart deadbolt on the front door ends the lost-key problem and lets you hand out codes instead of spares.
  • Set on the strongest lock made. A high-security deadbolt on the main entry, with standard Grade 1 hardware carrying the rest of the doors.

One more thing worth checking on any older home. On plenty of the houses we service across Dallas, Waco, College Station, and Corpus Christi, the back door is still opening on the builder’s original key that was never changed after move-in, and that quietly undoes every good lock on the front. Whatever you choose, make sure every exterior door is covered, not only the one you walk through. If you are not sure where your doors stand, that is exactly the kind of walk-through we do at Texas Premier Locksmith before recommending anything.

Want the Right Locks on Every Door? We Will Handle It.

Whether you need a full set of Grade 1 deadbolts, a high-security upgrade, or a smart lock installed and set up right, Texas Premier Locksmith handles it on site across Texas in one visit. We assess your doors, recommend what actually fits, and rekey or install the same day in most cases. We serve Dallas, Austin, Waco, Tyler, and cities statewide, and we offer Buy Now, Pay Later with Sunbit.

Written By
line

TPL

Texas Premier Locksmith Team

Texas Licensed Locksmith — License #B17236

Our residential technicians install, rekey, and upgrade locks on Texas homes every day, from a single deadbolt swap to whole-house high-security and smart lock setups. The recommendations here come straight from those jobs and the questions homeowners ask us right at the door, written so you can choose the right lock before you ever book a visit.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can a burglar pick or bump a standard deadbolt?

Picking takes skill and time, and it is not how most home break-ins happen, so it is low on the worry list for an average house. Bumping is the more realistic concern with basic cylinders. A Grade 1 deadbolt with a bump-resistant or security-pin cylinder, or a high-security lock like Medeco or Mul-T-Lock, closes that gap. For most homes the bigger risk is still a forced kick, which is why the bolt and the strike plate matter as much as the cylinder itself.

Do I need a deadbolt on every exterior door, or just the front?

Every exterior door, without exception. Burglars head for the door they cannot be seen at, usually the back or side, and that is often the weakest lock on the house. A strong front deadbolt does little good when the back door still has a builder-grade lock or the original key from move-in. Match the hardware on the back and garage-entry doors to what you put on the front.

Will a smart lock still work if the power or Wi-Fi goes out?

Yes, on any lock worth buying. Smart locks run on their own batteries, not your home power, and the lock keeps working over its keypad or key even when the internet is down. You only lose the remote features, like checking the lock from an app while you are away, until the connection returns. Keep a physical key or a backup code on hand and you are never locked out.

How often should I rekey the locks on my home?

Rekey any time you cannot account for every key, not on a fixed schedule. That means right after you move in, after a lost or stolen key, after a roommate or tenant leaves, and after a work crew had access. Rekeying is quick and far cheaper than new hardware, so there is no reason to leave an unknown key working.